Capernaum - Where Jesus Walked

Capernaum.

There are a lot of sites in Israel that are "iffy".  There are disputes as to if this place or that was the exact "spot" that such-and-such happened.  After all, it's been over 2000 years.  But not Capernaum.  Here there is no dispute.  Everyone agrees to the authenticity of the ruins of Capernaum.

"Leaving Nazareth he went and lived in Capernaum" (Matt 4:13).

Jesus lived here.  Jesus LIVED here!

Peter, Andrew, James and John were fishermen living in the village.  Matthew the tax collector also stayed here.

It's just an amazing thought. 

We started out in a marvelous garden.  There were benches under a large grove of trees (I found out later they were olive).  It was so peaceful.  So happily peaceful.

Quiet.  People spoke in hushed voices.  I remember there was a breeze.  It was so nice.

We all sat on the benches and Fr. T read to us from the Bible.  I wish I could remember which verse he read.  Capernaum is mentioned in the Gospels 16 times so I have no idea which one it was. But I remember it was wonderful.  I closed my eyes and was basking in it....until Hillel (our Jewish guide) jumped in and started giving us a detailed history lesson.  I think Fr. T was not happy about it, I know I sure wasn't.



On and on about the archeological significance of the place, the history of the Jewish people and how they lived 2000 years ago.  It was interesting, but it wasn't spiritual.  Hillel droned on and on with facts and to tell the truth, I was annoyed.  When some tour helicopters flew over and drowned him out, I was guiltily glad!

Actually, it turned out that Hillel is an expert on Capernaum and a premier archaeologist in Israel.  We were blessed to have had someone so knowledgeable for our guide.  Unfortunately, none of us realized that at the time.  He was trying to give us the rich history and archeological significance of the Jews in this place, and I was interested in connecting spiritually with Jesus in his hometown.  sigh.

We saw lots of cool things, in the court yard there is a display of industrial stone tools that were used at ancient times for farming, such as several olive oil presses, stone jugs, etc.

As we walked along, we could see the foundations of buildings built from the local (black) basalt rock.

As we walked down the path, we came to The Synagogue.

the Synagogue where Jesus preached in Capernaum, Israel

This was THE spot where Jesus preached.

the Synagogue of Capernaum

Actually, this is the "White Synagogue" which was built of white limestone at the end of the 4th century A.D. over the Temple Jesus knew in his day.

You can see the black, basalt rocks common to Capernaum under the beautiful white stones of the later synagogue. 

Jesus taught here. 

"Then they came to Capernaum, and on the sabbath he entered the synagogue and taught."   Mark 1:21

"Jesus then went down to Capernaum, a town of Galilee. He taught them on the sabbath,

and they were astonished at his teaching because he spoke with authority."    Luke 4:31-32

"These things he said while teaching in the synagogue in Capernaum."    John 6:59

 

 "When Jesus returned to Capernaum after some days, it became known that he was at home."  Mark 2:1

"After this, he and his mother, (his) brothers, and his disciples went down to Capernaum and stayed there only a few days."  John 2:12

Jesus made his home here. He lived his daily life here. They knew him, he was their "Teacher". He preached and he healed. He cast out demons.  He went to synagogue here.  He shopped and worked and lived day to day there! He walked all those streets.

This is where the Gospel of Luke says Jesus healed the centurion's servant and raised from the dead the daughter of this synagogue’s leader.

This is where the Gospel of Mark says Jesus healed a man possessed by an evil spirit.

the excavations in Capernaum, Israel

I couldn't.  I just stared out at the ruins and could not comprehend what I was looking at.  I was in complete awe of where I was!

Still to this day I cannot attend Mass without thinking of the black stones of Capernaum.  They come to my mind each time I say,

"Lord I am not worthy that you should enter under my roof, but only say the words and my soul shall be healed."

Capernaum with the Sea of Galilee in the background

"Jesus stepped into a boat, crossed over and came to his own town. Some men brought to him a paralyzed man, lying on a mat. When Jesus saw their faith, he said to the man, “Take heart, son; your sins are forgiven.”"  Matthew 9:1-2

Christ Heals a Man Paralyzed by the Gout. Mark 2:4. Engraving by Bernhard Rode, 1780.

 "A few days later, when Jesus again entered Capernaum, the people heard that he had come home. They gathered in such large numbers that there was no room left, not even outside the door, and he preached the word to them. Some men came, bringing to him a paralyzed man, carried by four of them. Since they could not get him to Jesus because of the crowd, they made an opening in the roof above Jesus by digging through it and then lowered the mat the man was lying on. When Jesus saw their faith, he said to the paralyzed man, “Son, your sins are forgiven.”"  Mark 2:1-5

 

Wow.  I mean seriously - WOW. 

Across the ruins from the Synagogue is St. Peter's house.

Although it would have been a simple dwelling 2000 years ago since Peter was just a fisherman, now there is a very odd-shaped church built over it.

This is where the story from both the Gospel of Matthew and the Gospel of Mark tell us that Jesus left the synagogue and entered the house of Simon (Peter) where his mother-in-law was sick with a fever.  Jesus grasped her hand and helped her up.  The fever left her and she waited on them.  And this was the place!!!

Under the Church in Capernaum is the House of St. Peter

There is archaeological evidence that shows pilgrims have been coming to this spot for centuries, leaving behind carvings of crosses, names, blessings and inscriptions on the walls.  Excavations have revealed pottery and lamps dating back to the end of the first century!!

The weird-looking church has a glass floor in the middle which looks down into St. Peter's house.

Under the glass floor of the Church and House of St. Peter

St. Peter's house is mentioned in the diaries of ancient pilgrims.  Egeria made her pilgrimage in 381, which she said included the original walls: "In Capernaum the house of the prince of the apostles has been made into a church, with its original walls still standing."  and in 570, the Piacenza pilgrim reported that "the house of St. Peter is now a basilica."

To the right of St. Peter's house are some areas for outside prayers services, mass or private meditation.

 
There is also a tiny bit of shoreline in this area, which a determined pilgrim can get to.

I was mesmerized. 

Time had marched on in Capernaum.  Civilizations had come and gone, buildings had risen and fallen...but that shoreline across the sea could not be much different than when Jesus gazed upon it 2000 years ago. 

 

I felt so at peace.

Too soon, as is always the case on a tour, the group was moving on and I had to leave.  Before I did, I pulled out a bottle I had been carrying for just such an occasion and scooped up some of the precious water.  Water that Jesus had swam in....fished in....walked on.

As we made our way back to the entrance of the archaeological park, we stopped before a statue of St. Peter.

 

I was sad to leave and wished I could have spent many more hours in Capernaum, contemplating all the events that had taken place there.  Maybe some day I will get to finish my meditations and again bask in the peace of Jesus' hometown.

Cana - Vow Renewals in the Wedding Church

ORDINARY TIME

This morning I couldn't help but be excited as we were headed to visit the site of the first miracle of Jesus, the changing of water into wine!

 Everyone on the bus was in a very festive mood with lots of happy chattering and giggling as we headed from Nazareth to Cana. Most of our group were on tour with their spouse and they were all about to renew their wedding vows in the very place of the first miracle of Jesus when he turned water to wine at the request of his mother! Their excitement was infectious, so that all the rest of us were all joyful too.

Merry.  The atmosphere can best be described as merry!

Along the road from Nazareth to Cana

The drive was short and as I looked out the bus windows I tried to imagine Jesus and Mary walking to their celebration so many years ago and what it must have looked like for them. I wondered how long it would have taken them to walk the 5 rocky, hilly miles. Were they excited and feeling celebratory? Were they looking forward to seeing old friends and family they hadn't seen in a while?   

We arrived at Kafr Kanna, the modern name for Cana.  It was a gorgeous day. The bus let us out on the main street and we went up the block and around the corner into a narrow, stone-paved lane. (So much cooler to walk up the time-worn street rather than just cross a modern parking lot to a church!!)

the road to the Wedding Church in Cana

It gave me the feeling of walking backwards in time!

We passed a school yard full of happy recess noise, overflowing little shops and secret-looking doors set into the high wall of the old road.

 The sky was deep blue, the air was morning-fresh and everyone seemed to have a skip in their step!

 

All of a sudden, there we were!

Doors opened from the street, through the high wall, and we turned into a compact little courtyard in front of the Franciscan Wedding Church in Cana!.

 

We all busied ourselves for a few minutes in the courtyard. I saw this interesting poster with Pope Benedict on it. I have no clue what it says or means, but whatever it is, it ends tomorrow (the date I was there being Nov 14, 2012)!

 

 (or at least tomorrow of the day we were there!?!?) 

All of the couples who were renewing their wedding vows were purchasing certificates of the blessing they would receive in their ceremony. I had talked with Fr. T the night before at dinner, and he had promised to say a special prayer for those of us who's spouses were back home and also for all of our married children. So the sweet little nun also sold me 3 certificates, assuring me that I could carry the blessing back to my loved ones in the United States.

Sweet little nun that sold us the Wedding Certificates

We were taken to a side chapel as another pilgrim group was saying Mass in the main church. The chapel had a Mediterranean feel to me and I loved the ambiance right away.

All the "wedding couples" lined up to walk down the aisle. Most were wearing special clothes for the occasion and all of them were as excited as if they were truly having a wedding - I know I felt like I was attending a real wedding! Then I thought, well if I had planned a huge ceremony for a renewal of my wedding vows, it would feel like this, and that is what these couples were experiencing!

One couple, JP & D had previously told me how they had always planned to come to Israel and renew their vows here in this church for their 50th wedding anniversary. Only now J had become sick and was terminal. They were part of our pilgrimage in celebration of their 45th anniversary instead. D was precious as she stood beside her husband, bouquet in hand and her eyes shining. I'm sure it was bitter-sweet for them both, but as I learned during my time with them, their faith is deep and they seem to have accepted God's will for them, no matter what the path may be. They are together in it.

*sigh*

Another precious story I heard that morning was about a couple who had brought special rings for this special occasion. Many years ago, they had escaped from Cuba. They didn't elaborate to me how they left their native country, but the trip must have been harrowing as they were afraid to wear their real wedding rings in case they would be stolen. They had special wedding rings made from non-precious metal and wore them on their get-away. Later, when they were settled in the US and safe, they sent for their original wedding rings and had worn them ever since. But in honor of their safe escape, they were wearing their plain metal rings on this pilgrimage and were going to renew their vows with them today.

*sigh*

Stories like these gripped my heart that morning and coupled with my desire to be renewing my own wedding vows with my husband, let's just say I was a bit emotional...uh yeah, I cried through a good portion of the Wedding Mass!

Mom volunteered to do the readings and responsorial psalm. To me, it made the mass which I knew would be having specific blessings for Russell & I, Mitch & Marcie and Mark & Lacy that much more special.

Of course, Fr. T, who has a voice like an angel, sang the entire Mass, which is always beautiful and inspiring, as are his spiritual sermons! He can bring me to tears or chill-bumps at almost every mass!!! (even here at home I mean!)

Just like at a wedding, they held a ceremony in the middle of the mass. There was a lovely blessing of the rings (and I thought about my sweet Cuban friends).

And renewal of everyone's wedding vows!

I though our "paparazzi" were cute!

Of course, my favorite part was when Fr. T. gave the special blessing for all the married people who's spouses were not present and for all our married children. He gave such a lovely prayer for us all! I wish I could remember the words!

Look at me, I'm obviously into the prayer for my husband and children. I was crying and holding up the certificates of blessing so that they get the full brunt of it as Fr. T made the sign of the cross!

When Fr. T sings the consecration, it is so beautiful! What must it have been like for our dear priests to have changed the wine to blood in the very place where Jesus foreshadowed his own sacrifice by changing water to wine?

After the Mass, all our "newlyweds" lined up to have their picture made on the altar. It was fun and the mood was very festive!

After all the pictures we began our tour of the grotto under the main sanctuary. Then we did a little shopping!

Of course there was lots of wine to choose from! Everyone bought a lot of it, which turned out to have a wonderful side effect - once back to their rooms, they realized that it was too heavy to carry back on the airplane, so each night someone brought wine to dinner and shared! It was like a wine-tasting! LOL!

I bought a set so that Russell and I could have a small bottle and each of the kids could have one to share with their spouse....we'll give Morgan his on his wedding day - WAY in the future!! LOL!

My own wedding picture, along with those of my children

Dear Lord, please continue to bless my marriage.  Keep us together always, no matter what we may face.  Please bless my children and their spouses.  Let us all be strong in our devotion to each other and to you.  Amen.

2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day 4