The Basilica of the Transfiguration

LENT

Mount Tabor

Mt. Tabor finally gave me my first spiritual experience and turned my "trip" into a "pilgrimage"!

the Megiddo Valley

We had spent the day in Caesarea, Haifa, Mt. Carmel and Elijah's Cave.   Now we drove through the Megiddo Valley, which Hillel explained was referred to in the  New Testament as Armageddon, the Hebrew name for Mount Megiddo.  

More Megiddo Valley

It's kinda weird looking out the bus windows at what is considered the future site of Armageddon, the final battle between good and evil.  I looked out over the landscape and it felt surreal.  It's one of those times when you have to change the subject in your own mind or little waves of panic might flutter up. 

Although we rode our tour bus partway up Mount Tabor, we had to transfer to smaller taxi-vans to complete the trip to the top.  The buses cannot make the hairpin turns of the road...

Talk about a zig-zag!!!

Perilous road up to the top of Mount Tabor

The taxi took off and it was like a thrill ride!  Talk about a twisty, narrow road right on the edge of the mountain!  Our driver knew the road well and would speed way up, then slow only as little as he needed to take the tight curves!  I think he was making it as crazy as possible, and was loving the screams and laughter coming from all of us!!

My fellow pilgrims hanging on for dear life!

Look at my fellow pilgrims holding on as we raced up the mountain!  Not even any seat belts!!  LOL!

I'm normally apprehensive when I feel others drive too fast or wild but this ride was great fun to me!!  I don't know why!  I don't know why I wasn't terrified, it's not like we were on a fake thrill ride at Disney World!  No hidden tracks holding us on that road!!  The Guardian Angels must stay very busy watching over Pilgrims on that drive I can tell you!!!

It wasn't long before our insane ride was over, and we arrived safely at the top of the mountain.  Our driver deposited us at the end of a long gravel pathway bordered by a low wall and cypress trees.

the Entrance to the Basilica of the Transfiguration

At the end was a gate which gave us our first view of the lovely Basilica of the Transfiguration.  It was GORGEOUS! 

The Basilica of the Transfiguration

The church rose up at the end of the stone walkway, light rock against that sapphire blue sky - it was breathtaking from the first moment we saw it!  The giant, puffy clouds were moving by quickly and gave the entire image a mystical quality, almost like time passing before my eyes.

To the left and right were multiple little courtyards with archeological gardens full of flowers, stone ruins and interesting-looking paths.  

I did notice this particular cactus....what is wrong with people?  Who scratches graffiti into a living plant???

The front of the church was designed to symbolize the suggestion by Peter to Jesus that the apostles should erect three tents on this spot, one for Jesus and one each for Moses and Elijah.  The side towers, which represent the two prophets are actually shorter than the main nave which represents Jesus, and they all have roofs that are pointy to symbolize tents.

The Basilica of the Transfiguration

We crossed the courtyard and entered the massive church.  Directly inside the door was a grate in the floor.  Looking down, I could see the rocks of the mountain top.  There were hundreds of tiny notes in there - prayers from pilgrims!  

I quickly wrote my prayer request down on paper torn from my journal notebook, folded it and stuck it between the scrolled bars to mingle with the other prayers of the faithful.

The church was immense-looking from the entrance, but once inside although it was tall, the giant pillars and dividing walls made it seem much smaller.  

On either side of the main section of the church are side tabernacles directly under the towers of Moses to the right and Elijah to the left, which I never saw (I didn't even know about them until I returned home and saw pictures of them on the internet!).  Obviously Mom didn't either, because she has no pictures of either one.  Maybe they were in the upper part of the church?  I don't know, but on either side of the Grotto of Christ were other side altars, one had a statue of Mary & Baby Jesus, the other looks like maybe St. Francis, since this is a Franciscan Church? 

These altars look the same, but they are not, check out the symbol in the dome between the angels

On further examination of my photographs, I notice that under the statue of Mary, there is something peeking out of the tabernacle.  I thought it was a host?  But no, maybe a relic?  

(I know that's blurry! Sorry!)  Not sure what it is, but I'm sorry I didn't find out.  : (

In the middle was a glorious mosaic with a gold background depicting the Transfiguration of Jesus.

Later I read:

"In Christian teaching, the Transfiguration is a pivotal moment, and the setting on the mountain is presented as the point where human nature meets God: the meeting place for the temporal and the eternal, with Jesus himself as the connecting point, acting as the bridge between Heaven and Earth.Inside the church has a split level plan with open views down to the barrel vaulted lower level, and upwards to the domed apse. The nave roof is higher on heavy timber trusses with clerestory windows. The roof tiles and the windows are made of alabaster to let in light. The ornamentation of the central nave is simple, with two friezes, one of stone engraving that follows the line of the arches and the other in a straight line of mosaic under the windows. The interior has been described as “a striking vision, a wonderful transfiguration of stone, marble and mosaic [by Umberto Noni]. The central nave gives us a full view of the eastern apse. It has two levels, the upper level commemorating the divine nature of Christ and the lower recalling different manifestations of his humanity.”."

I thought that was a beautiful description of the visually-impressive church!

I was surprised that directly in front of us, the altar we were led to was actually down a set of stairs, under a balcony of some kind.
 
At first I thought we were in a minor altar of some kind (I was actually disappointed), but Fr. N told me later that it was the main sanctuary, called The Grotto of Christ.  The smallness of it seemed odd considering how massive the church was, but I quickly fell in love with it for it's intimacy during Mass.  

The Grotto of Christ, Basilica of the Transfiguration, Mt. Tabor, Israel

I found out later that this altar is on the level of the Byzantine church and the arched ceiling is decorated with mosaics depicting four moments of angelic intervention in the life of Jesus.

So we all settled into the Grotto of Christ, and I heard Fr. T's gorgeous voice coming from behind me....Mass had begun!

This was our first Mass in the Holy Land.  

I was almost beside myself in anticipation of the holy aura I was expecting to decend upon me like the clouds which had decended on this exact place over 2000 years ago!  Just think, to be part of the divine worship of the most Holy Mass, in this most holy of holy spots on earth...God SPOKE here! 

Mass in the Basilica of the Transfiguration

Fr. N and Fr. T stood at that glorious altar and began the familar prayers.  Behind them, the window's art features a set of peacocks, which are a symbol of mortality granted to the followers of Jesus.  According to legend the peacock's flesh does not decay. 

As the Gospel was read, I tried to imprint the words on my heart so that I would always remember, every time I heard these verses, what it was like to stand in this place where Jesus, Moses, Elijah, Peter, James & John had all stood together - and where God told us to listen to His Son. 

Mark 9:2-8

Jesus took Peter, James, and his brother John,
and led them up a high mountain apart by themselves.
And he was transfigured before them,
and his clothes became dazzling white,
such as no fuller on earth could bleach them.
Then Elijah appeared to them along with Moses,
and they were conversing with Jesus.
Then Peter said to Jesus in reply,
"Rabbi, it is good that we are here!
Let us make three tents:
one for you, one for Moses, and one for Elijah."
He hardly knew what to say, they were so terrified.
Then a cloud came, casting a shadow over them;
from the cloud came a voice,
"This is my beloved Son. Listen to him."
Suddenly, looking around, they no longer saw anyone
but Jesus alone with them.

It was surreal and I was overwhelmed with it all!

This was the first time I had heard Fr. N speak, and his sermon was just excellent - so thought provoking; pulling us all back to earth!  

He said that when Jesus was transformed, the apostles wanted to stay and bask in the feeling, the wonderousness of it.  They wanted to set up tents and stay.  But Jesus went back to his normal, his regular self.  He knew he had a job to do, a mission to complete.  He had to return to his life at the bottom of the mountain.  And we too must enjoy and bask in the glorious sites and sounds of our pilgrimage, but we must also return to our normal lives to continue the work God has for us.

So true!

When it was time for the consecration, I could just imagine the bread being transfigured into Jesus.  (I know that isn't correct theology, but these are my thoughts on my journey, and that is what I was thinking!).

As I went up to recieve communion, I knew I was not doing this holy place justice with my pitiful prayers, but as I turned to return to my seat, there was the glass-covered rock which is suppose to be where Jesus was standing when the transfiguration occurred, and I paused with the host in my mouth and stood still on that spot for a moment and my eyes just filled with tears and my heart seemed to swell.  

Mom standing on the spot where Jesus Transfigured

I went back to my seat and knelt down and then cried all the way through the final blessing.  It was an indescribable feeling, but definitely a good one.  : )

When I emerged from mass (and it really felt like we were physically "emerging" as we climbed up out of the grotto into the sunlight streaming through the giant doors of the church and also spiritually "emerging" from the Prayer of Mass) I felt almost euphoric!  Like that happy feeling after going to confession, but x 10!

We went to the balcony of the Franciscan hospice and looked out on the view of the Plain of Jezreel, which means "God sows".  Looking out across the panoramic view, all the fields are a testament that the area is very fertile.  No wonder it is called "the breadbasket of Israel".

You also can't help but think about the various battles which have taken place down there over the years, including the famous one led by Deborah from the Old Testament.

The Basilica sits amongst the ruins of a Benedictine monastery.  

 There are many old walls, stairs and crumbling buildings scattered around the site.

It was out among these ruins that I found the perfect rock to take home to Morgan for his collection.

Then, unlike the early pilgrims who used the 4300 steps cut into the rocky slope to climb up and down this holy mountain, we jumped back into our roller-coaster-taxis-ride and hung on for the harrowing journey back down the crazy road to our bus.   

At the taxi-stand we waited for the bus by looking at trinkets and drinking pomagranet juice!

The price of my cup of juice:  10 shekels, which was around $2.50.  (btw, thank you very much JP for treating me!)

We were actually getting the most for our money on this day @ 4 shekels for a dollar.  After this, we only got 3 shekels for each $1 all the rest of the trip.

At the end of the day, I was lying on my bed in our hotel room pondering the day and writing notes about the events and my thoughts.  

The windows were open to catch the breeze (I couldn't figure out how to work the thermostat in our room as it was written in Arabic or Hebrew or something!  LOL!).  

Right at sunset, I heard the Muslim "call to prayer" for the first time. 

It's an erie song, with a chanting kind of cadence.  I asked Hillel about it and he said they do it 5 times a day, summoning all the Muslims for mandatory prayers.  The tower that the "call" comes out from is called a minaret.  The main reason behind the loud pronouncements is to bring to mind the Islamic beliefs to all the believers and non-believers within earshot.  Although it used to be done by the holy men in the past, now it's automated with loud PA systems. 

View From My Window - Nazareth

 Minaret of Mosque is lit up in green lights

Bell Tower of the Christian Church is lit up in golden lights

When the Call to Prayer was complete, I stayed at the window enjoying the lovely sunset and the sounds floating up from the street.  While I was standing there, the bells of the Christian Church up the hill from the Mosque began to peal and ring out the time: 6:00 pm.  Way off in the distance I could hear other church bells ringing also.  It was much more lovely to listen to than the drone of the Call to Prayer, that's for sure!!

I stood at the window until it was almost completely dark (as my dozen or so pictures of the sunset attest too!  LOL!) and happily ended the first full day of my pilgrimage to Israel.

Dear Lord, Thank You for this day!  I feel like Peter, I want to say "oh Lord, it is so good that we are here and everything is so wonderful and I never want it to end!  Let us stay here like this forever! "  But I know I cannot and must return to my normal life.  Lord, help me to always keep my hands and mind on the work you have for me, but allow my heart to stay in touch with the wondrous feelings of this day!  Amen.


2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day One 
Most of this blog entry is taken from one of the few actual journal notes I wrote while on my trip in Israel 2012

Expecting Miracles - Or Not

ORDINARY TIME

The city of Nazareth as seen from Mt. Tabor

 Luke 4:21-30

He said to them, “Today this scripture passage is fulfilled in your hearing."  And all spoke highly of him and were amazed at the gracious words that came from his mouth. They also asked, “Isn’t this the son of Joseph?”He said to them, “Surely you will quote me this proverb, ‘Physician, cure yourself,’ and say, ‘Do here in your native place the things that we heard were done in Capernaum.”  And he said, “Amen, I say to you, no prophet is accepted in his own native place. Indeed, I tell you, there were many widows in Israel in the days of Elijah when the sky was closed for three and a half years and a severe famine spread over the entire land. It was to none of these that Elijah was sent, but only to a widow in Zarephath in the land of Sidon. Again, there were many lepers in Israel during the time of Elisha the prophet; yet not one of them was cleansed, but only Naaman the Syrian.”When the people in the synagogue heard this, they were all filled with fury. They rose up, drove him out of the town, and led him to the brow of the hill on which their town had been built, to hurl him down headlong. But he passed through the midst of them and went away.

  View from the "brow of a hill" in Nazareth looking out over the Jezreel Valley

Jesus spoke in the synagogue in Nazareth and all the people were expecting "a show".  They had heard about his miracles in Caperneum, so I guess they figured if he did that there, what must he be saving for his hometown?!  Surely he was saving the best for his friends back home!

(Oh!  Is this how I was in Israel??  I have attended church in the US since I was born, I've been to retreats, adoration, visited missions and shrines and have felt the Holy Spirit at them all.  Was I now expecting the "big show" just because I was in Israel??)

The scripture says at first the people "spoke highly" of Jesus.  I guess they were pretty proud of the "home town boy"!  But were they really believers?  Did they believe he was who he said, or did they have a "show me" or "prove it" attitude?

(Was I expecting to see miracles on my pilgrimage?  Was I expecting more just because of my location, just like the people of Nazareth because of their connection to Jesus?  Was I expecting Israel to "preform" just like the people of Nazareth were expecting Jesus to perform for them?)

Then people of Nazareth were like "Do you hear this guy?  Who does he think he is?  Isn't this that carpenter's son from down the street?"  They couldn't imagine that he could be more than just the boy they grew up with.

(Is this how I feel at my hometown church?  Do I think miracles can't happen here because it is all too familiar?  Do I think I need to travel to far-off places to have a holy experience?)

The people got mad at Jesus (for insinuating he was the Messiah?  for not performing any miracles for them?) and tried to throw him off a high hill.  But he just passed between the angry crowd.

 Another view from the "brow of a hill" in Nazareth looking out over the Jezreel Valley

I know this is not true, but I also understand where the people of Nazareth were coming from.


Years ago when I was in the midst of my own personal spiritual conversion I had my own personal miracle.

It was a turning point in my life, as of course all miracles should be!

I was one of those luke-warm Catholics that did my time at church each Sunday without any real devotion or enthusiasm.  I was also a CCD teacher, but more because I had children in the program than from any real calling.  We didn't have a lot of money and teachers children attended for free. Lame right?

Anyway, I was at the library looking for something for my class and came across a book called "Visions of the Children". I thought it was about things to do with children and checked it out. As it turned out it was a book about the young visionaries of Medjugorje.

The book changed my life.

I know that sounds ridiculous, but it did.  (go read it! see for yourself!)  Leave it to our Blessed Mother to be the one to lead me back to a real relationship with her son!

Anyway, the short version is that this book made me examine what I believed, as apposed to what I thought, as apposed to what I was taught as a child about the Catholic faith.  Although I had many things happen or change in my life as a result of these self-examinations, I want to tell you about the bomb-shell.

I had read at at various times in the book to "pray, pray, pray".  This is Mary's wish and she says it all through the book (she is still saying it btw).  Pray for children, pray for marriage, pray for pregnant women, pray for your spouse, pray for priests, pray for your parents...so I had begun to say the rosary every day on my 30 minute ride to work and dedicating it to her intentions.

Monday was for my spouse and marriage in general.
Tuesday was for an end to abortion.
Wednesday was for my son Mitch.
Thursday was for random intentions of the week.
Friday was for my daughter Lacy.

So each day I prayed and offered my prayers for our Lady's intentions.

At this point I should say that every day I was praying in my car using a very old rosary that my grandmother had given me which belonged to her big sister.  My grandmother, Pete, had a sister she called Aggie who had died in a car wreck.  It was old with a silver chain and cross which had her name engraved on it "Agnes Zeller" and little fake pearl beads which the coating was rubbing off a lot of them.

I would read about the wonderful events that happened in Medjugorje and wish wish wish I could go there and be part of it all!  I wanted to be a pilgrim and be where our Lady was appearing in that holy place! 

So I'm driving along like everyday saying my rosary, but my mind begins to wander in the lulling familiarity of the prayers.  I guess I had let my guard down and let Satan in through that tiny crack.  It must have been a Tuesday because I was thinking "what good is it for me to be praying for an end to abortion?  How could my one little prayer be a drop in the bucket of prayers said today about all the subjects being prayed about?  How is my prayer even heard amongst so many and how could my insignificant little attempt make any difference at all?"

FLASH!

There was this bright flash in my hand!  I nearly ran off the road!  I looked down and my rosary was shining weirdly in the sunlight.  I pulled over and looked and it was the strangest thing---my rosary chain had turned gold!!!!!  Yes, GOLD!!

My brain couldn't make sense of it.  The cross and medal were still silver.  Aunt Aggies name was still there.  The beads were still the same peeling mother-of-pearl...but the chain!  The chain was gold! I was sure there was something wrong.  I was sure this was some trick of the sun.  I was sure I was remembering wrong.  Had it always been gold?

Rosary with silver center piece & crucifix and golden chain

I decided to use my youngest child as a confirmation.  When I picked her up from school I just causally asked her, "What color is mommy's rosary?"  And she described it to a tee, including the silver chain!

OMYGOSH!!!!  OH...MY...GOSH.  !!!!

It HAD changed!  It was silver before and now it was gold!  WOW!  It was a miracle! A real, honest miracle!  I had never heard of such a thing before!!

My Great-Aunt Aggie's silver rosary

And immediately on the heels of that thought was: what does this mean?

And through prayer and discernment on this profound and special gift to me, it was laid on my heart simply that my prayers are heard.  My prayers are heard.  My prayers help.  My prayers are powerful.

Even my one, puny little prayer makes a difference and means something to our Lord God Almighty.

Our Lady heard me praying and heard me doubting.  And she graciously allowed me the most awesome gift: " We Hear You".   How blessed am I?????


And you know what else?  I don't have to be anywhere "holy" or special to pray.  As awesome as my my trip to Israel was, wherever I am, whatever I am doing, whatever time it is, it's a perfect time & place to pray!  I don't need to be in the room with Our Lady as she appears on earth today in Medjugorje and I don't need to be on my knees on the rock of Calvary where Our Lord was crucified in Jerusalem and I don't even need to be in my own hometown church in front of the altar.  My car is a fine place to pray.  As is my bedroom.  Or my porch swing.  Or my laundry room. 

The Great I AM is listening.

Lord God Almighty, let me never forget that each and every heartfelt word I say to you is heard.  The Creator of Heaven and Earth and all things visible and invisible...is listening and loves me. 


ps.  Are you wondering what ever happened to my miracle rosary?  I showed it to a few people and told my story to others.  I treasured it and treasured the event, and still do!  But I began to feel that I was sorry about this miracle having to happen to me.  How lame was I that I needed a miracle?!?!  I should never have doubted that my prayers were heard, I should have had faith in what I had been taught by the Catholic church!   I told God I was sorry that he had to "show me", that my faith was weak.  I felt bad to have needed a miracle of my own!  I practically grabbed Jesus' arm and tried to throw him from the hill with my doubts, didn't I?

I thought such a wondrous event should not have been wasted on me and my weakness, it might have been used to cure or save someone!  Oh, how sneaky is Satan.  He was taking my gift and talking me into feeling bad about it.

Well, I don't feel that way anymore.  I love my special gift and I will never forget how God my Father loves me individually and loves to hear from me.  I will listen to Holy Mary my Mother and pray pray pray.  (she always says it three times like that!).  Always!

Oh, and the rosary?  I gave it away.  I didn't want to focus on the rosary.  I didn't want to make the rosary an accidental object of worship, I didn't want to become attached to it, or make it "magical".  I gave it to someone very special to me who knows and believes the miracle and will always have it to remember me and my conversion But I will never forget it, never.  Nor the day Mary, the Mother of God said "We hear you!".    : )

2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day Three