Kursi National Park and the "Miracle of the Swine"

MONDAY OF THE FOURTH WEEK IN ORDINARY TIME

On the east bank of the Sea of Galilee is Kursi National Park.

Kursi National Park, Israel

The highway to get there is interesting in itself, if you know why there are so many tall trees planted along it's edges - to protect vehicles from view of the Golan Heights! 

Looking over the protective trees along the highway at the Golan Heights

Our guide, Hillel, said that as a boy he would come with his family to this area to vacation.  Spending time in bomb shelters was part of life in this area since it directly beneath the Golan Heights.   Unimaginable to my American mind!

We began our tour of the area with a Bible reading by Fr. T.  This was always such a wonderful way to start any visit to a site in Israel, it helped me so much to try to understand where I was and what had happened in this place.

Gospel mk 5:1-20

Jesus and his disciples came to the other side of the sea,
to the territory of the Gerasenes.
When he got out of the boat,
at once a man from the tombs who had an unclean spirit met him.
The man had been dwelling among the tombs,
and no one could restrain him any longer, even with a chain.
In fact, he had frequently been bound with shackles and chains,
but the chains had been pulled apart by him and the shackles smashed,
and no one was strong enough to subdue him.
Night and day among the tombs and on the hillsides
he was always crying out and bruising himself with stones.
Catching sight of Jesus from a distance,
he ran up and prostrated himself before him,
crying out in a loud voice,
“What have you to do with me, Jesus, Son of the Most High God?
I adjure you by God, do not torment me!”
(He had been saying to him, “Unclean spirit, come out of the man!”)
He asked him, “What is your name?”
He replied, “Legion is my name. There are many of us.”
And he pleaded earnestly with him
not to drive them away from that territory.

Now a large herd of swine was feeding there on the hillside.
And they pleaded with him,
“Send us into the swine. Let us enter them.”
And he let them, and the unclean spirits came out and entered the swine.
The herd of about two thousand rushed down a steep bank into the sea,
where they were drowned.
The swineherds ran away and reported the incident in the town
and throughout the countryside.
And people came out to see what had happened.
As they approached Jesus,
they caught sight of the man who had been possessed by Legion,
sitting there clothed and in his right mind.
And they were seized with fear.
Those who witnessed the incident explained to them what had happened
to the possessed man and to the swine.
Then they began to beg him to leave their district.
As he was getting into the boat,
the man who had been possessed pleaded to remain with him.
But Jesus would not permit him but told him instead,
“Go home to your family and announce to them
all that the Lord in his pity has done for you.”
Then the man went off and began to proclaim in the Decapolis
what Jesus had done for him; and all were amazed.

As we stood and listened to Father read, it dawned on us all where we were, and we all turned and looked up at the hill above the ruins.  It only took a few more minutes for us to realize that there was some sort of structure and a path to the top of the hill where the miracle took place!

Path to the "Miracle of the Swine" site in the foothills of the Golan Heights

About 1/2 our group took off up the hill to see the site.  I would not suggest this hike to everyone, I would call it a moderate climb.  Although the path is well-marked and starts out wide, it does get slimmer and more rocky towards the top. I thought it was a steep climb.  One website said the elevation was 900 feet but after lots and lots of searching, I can't find anything at all giving any information regarding this little hike.

"Miracle of the Swine" Hill

I made it to the top!

Byzantine Ruins on top the "Miracle of the Swine" Hill, Kursi National Park, Israel

Up on the hill of the "Miracle of the Swine" are the ruins of a chapel which has 3 layers of mosaics uncovered. This area was originally in a cave, but they excavated it - for the tourists?  Or maybe the monks did it centuries ago?  I don't know. 

Closeup of the Byzantine ruins

There are other ruins here also, including a stone bench for looking out over the Sea of Galilee.  

Looking out over the sea and knowing what happened here is amazing.  The weather was warm and so the climb had heated me up, but the breeze off the lake was refreshing.  Thinking about what it must have been like to see the entire herd of swine all of a sudden stampede down into the lake and drown must have been quite a sight!

This incident is mentioned in three Gospels:  Matthew 8:28-34,  Mark 5:1-14, and Luke 8:26-37.

We didn't have much time as this was an unscheduled stop on our tour, so we headed back down after a short reflection and visited the Byzantine Monastery which is built at the bottom of the hill.

Archaeological investigators identify this site as ancient "Kurshi", a center of idol worship in ancient times.  The ruins are of the Byzantine Monastery build in here in the fifth century AD to honor the miracle that happened at this site.

Prayer Hall of the Church in the Byzantine Monastery at Kursi

The ruins were only accidentally discovered in 1970 when they were doing road construction after the Six Day War!  Kursi only opened to the public in 1982.  It's hard to believe this marvelous site was hidden from pilgrims for all those years!

The floors used to contain beautiful mosaics of birds, fish and fruit, but previous visitors (hundreds of years ago, not modern tourists) have pulled them up.  Now you can see the plain tile outlining the holes in the floor where the pictures used to be.

Vandalized mosaic floors at Kursi

These remains are significant in that this is the largest known Byzantine Monastery in the Holy Land. 

The ruins include the anterior courtyard of the church, which originally had a 2-story tower in it.

The church has a Prayer Hall with an Apse at the front and long skinny auxiliary rooms running on either side.

One side had a Chapel with a Baptistery in it.  I had to borrow a picture of it from BibleWalks.com as neither Mom nor I got a picture of this.  I wanted to include it as they found a crypt below this floor with 30 skeletons of the monks inside!

BibleWalks.com photo of the Chapel at Kursi

The other side had an oil press in it, and another room behind which had shelves set up for candles.

Lastly, the entrance walk has a very cool old wall which fascinated me.

There are lots of benches and picnic tables under shady trees scattered throughout this site, I guess because it is a National Park?  It is definitely a great place to stop and take a rest or even have a picnic if you have snacks/food with you!

(***if you should journey to the top of the hill, be sure to read my post about the vine of thorns growing from the rock above the site)

2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day 5

Holy Mass on the Mount of Beatitudes

ORDINARY TIME

Mt 5:1-12a

When Jesus saw the crowds, he went up the mountain,
and after he had sat down, his disciples came to him.
He began to teach them, saying:

“Blessed are the poor in spirit,
for theirs is the Kingdom of heaven.
Blessed are they who mourn,
for they will be comforted.
Blessed are the meek,
for they will inherit the land.
Blessed are they who hunger and thirst for righteousness,
for they will be satisfied.
Blessed are the merciful,
for they will be shown mercy.
Blessed are the clean of heart,
for they will see God.
Blessed are the peacemakers,
for they will be called children of God.
Blessed are they who are persecuted for the sake of righteousness,
for theirs is the Kingdom of heaven.
Blessed are you when they insult you and persecute you
and utter every kind of evil against you falsely because of me.
Rejoice and be glad,
for your reward will be great in heaven.”

View from the top of the Mount of Beatitudes looking down to the Sea of Galilee

Yes, I know. This isn't a Sunday reading, but the daily one for November first.  I loved the Mount of Beatitudes so much though; I will always remember it as so peaceful.

The word beatitude literally means "happiness" or "blessedness". 

Well we were certainly blessed the day we visited.  It was gorgeous, with a wonderful "blue-bird sky" as my husband calls it, and perfect temperatures.  I did take some notes that day....

"Mass on the Mount of Beatitudes - listening to the Gospel story with the breeze on my face and the birds singing, sunshine so bright and flowers blooming - it could not have been more precious.

 The sermon was perfect, but I can't remember the words - oh how I wish I had a better memory. 

 As Fr.  N. held up the host, it was backlit by the sun!  It glowed with light and looked radiant to me.  Bees buzzed and birds chirped and it was p.e.r.f.e.c.t.

I look out now over the altar that we used and can see the Sea of Galilee below me from this mountain, I see banana trees and palms down the mountainside to the water.  It is an amazing place to be, how blessed am I."

Fr. N. delivers a "sermon on the mount"

I just cannot convey how absolutely peaceful it was on the mountain for me that day.  Mass was just beautiful.  It was outside, right on the side of the very mountain where Jesus gave the Beatitudes to all Believers.

Fr. T looks to be deep in the spiritual moment of this beautiful place

We were out in the sunshine, under the trees just as the people might have been that very day so long ago.  Looking around, I wondered if some of the rocks were the very ones the people had rested on as they heard His words!

Rocks on the Mount of Beatitudes

Bougainvillea blooms overhead in the outside chapel area

Birds were singing and when I looked up, the dappled sun shone down on me through the gorgeous Bougainvillea flowers and my heart was just bursting!

I kept picturing Jesus teaching the people on this mountainside and being so glad in the providence of God that allowed us to be outside for Mass rather than inside the chapel.

Sermon of the Beatitudes - James Tissot

I'm guessing that at most of the holy sites we were allowed the great gift of celebrating Mass, our priests attempted to have our services indoors the sacred and famous chapels and churches.  But it didn't always work out, and this was one time when I was glad to be outside to celebrate Mass.

Beautiful Mass in a beautiful place

 

Although we were given time to explore the grounds of the Church of the Beatitudes after mass, I went to a bench beside the altar and looked out over the hillside down to the Sea of Galilee (where we had just been earlier that morning).

I wanted to be alone and I could have stayed there and basked in my own happiness for quite a while.  and I knew I was blessed to be feeling so profoundly effected by this place.

View from the top of the Mount of Beatitudes

I looked down the hillside from my bench and the banana groves and palm trees swayed in the gentle breezes.  The sky and water were almost the same shade of blue, and Mt. Arbel was barely visible in the distance.

I remembered being told once at a retreat to close my eyes and let the sunshine warm my skin like the love of God shining down on me.  I sat in this wonderful place and reveled in trying to absorb the glorious feelings I was experiencing, the spiritual souvenirs I was receiving. 

Although I did explore the inside of the Chapel (and the gift shop too!), I will save that memory for another time.  I wanted to again savor the moment on that day in November 2012 when I was privileged to have spent time on the Mount and so today I will stop here in my reminisces about the blessings I received that day in that special place.

Thank You Lord for that moment on that day in that place.  And if it be your will, please let me one day go back and sit on that bench on the top of the Mount of Beatitudes.  Amen.

From the top of the Mount of the Beatitudes

2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day 5

Fishers of Men on the Sea of Galilee

ORDINARY TIME

While the crowd was pressing in on Jesus and listening to the word of God, he was standing by the Lake of Gennesaret. He saw two boats there alongside the lake; the fishermen had disembarked and were washing their nets. Getting into one of the boats, the one belonging to Simon, he asked him to put out a short distance from the shore. Then he sat down and taught the crowds from the boat.  After he had finished speaking, he said to Simon, “Put out into deep water and lower your nets for a catch.” Simon said in reply, “Master, we have worked hard all night and have caught nothing, but at your command I will lower the nets.” When they had done this, they caught a great number of fish and their nets were tearing. They signaled to their partners in the other boat to come to help them. They came and filled both boats so that they were in danger of sinking. When Simon Peter saw this, he fell at the knees of Jesus and said, “Depart from me, Lord, for I am a sinful man.” For astonishment at the catch of fish they had made seized him and all those with him, and likewise James and John, the sons of Zebedee, who were partners of Simon. Jesus said to Simon, “Do not be afraid; from now on you will be catching men.”When they brought their boats to the shore, they left everything and followed him.

Sea of Galilee

Sea of Kinneret, Lake of Gennesaret, Lake Tiberias, in Hebrew: יָם כִּנֶּרֶת, in Judeo-Aramaic: יַמּא
דטבריא, in Arabic: بحيرة طبرية‎)

...no matter what you call it, the Sea of Galilee was one of my most favorite places in Israel.

Me tossing stones into the Sea of Galilee

I was privileged to be on the shore at sunrise, and sunset and to ride a boat to the middle.  Privileged!

Sunset on the Sea of Galilee

The Sea of Galilee is the largest freshwater lake in Israel, and the lowest in the world (the Dead Sea is lower, but it's salt water).

On our tour, we got to go out on a boat similar to something the men would have used in Jesus' day for fishing (or so they said, I really I didn't get the comparison at all, maybe it was about the size?)  It was a wonderful experience that I would suggest everyone who visits Israel do.

As the tour of the lake began, the "crew" raised a flag - American!  What a surprise!  They were trying to honor us, which was just the sweetest thing ever.  (little did we know, that due to the "escalated hostilities" going on at that time, our flag could have been protection for our little boat, or an unknowing target).  It was surprising and precious.  We sang!

We were all chattering happily and taking pictures and Fr. T centered us all with a reading from the Gospel and a request that we not speak for 10 minutes.

It was amazing.

I found myself on the side of the boat that faced the very spot I had been sitting on the bank at daybreak, looking out to sea exactly where I was now.  That's not dejavu, but it's something cool!

From the middle of the Sea of Galilee looking back at the Primacy of St. Peter, Tabgha and the Mount of Beatitudes

I could see the Primacy of St. Peter and it's small bank where I had sat just this morning, looking out to the middle of the sea where I now sat.  (I would say "what a coincidence", but one time I read: a coincidence is a miracle that God doesn't take credit for.  Something to think about!)

I could look up the hill from my cherished spot and see the mountain where Jesus gave us the Beatitudes!!  Where we had just come from!  Where we had just celebrated mass!

Jesus, Peter, James, John....when they were out fishing in this very sea, they could look back at the shore and see that same mountain, that same landscape.

 

This very sea was where Jesus spectacularly walked on this very water.

The captain of our boat explained how the terrain around the sea - the shape of the mountain and the proximity of the valley which allows for wind to funnel through - it is the perfect setup for sudden, violent storms.

Such as the night that Jesus slept in the bow as his Disciples worried that they would perish.

Brooklyn Museum - James Tissot

Brooklyn Museum - James Tissot

This is the sea that obeyed his commands.

Sigh.  It was awesome to be there, thinking of all these things.



After we all finished our meditation time, (which was over too soon for me...I was so lost in thought!) the crew of the boat had a surprise for us. They were going to demonstrate how the disciples and men of Jesus' time would fish with nets.

The story of Jesus gathering his disciplines is in 3 of 4 Gospels.  So I was happy to get a chance to see how they fished in those days so I could align my mind with the stories when I listen to them for the rest of my life!  It was not what I expected though! 

Being from South Carolina, I am used to seeing fishing and shrimping boats at the coast. I have even been out as a guest on a small non-commercial shrimp boat which utilized a cast net.  But I always thought the Apostles used large nets which would be manned by multiple people.  So i was surprised to see the captain pull out a cast net.

AmericanCatholic.org says:  "The cast net is circular, about 20 feet in diameter, with weights of lead attached to the border. One man usually flings the net in a round circle from the shore but it is also done from boats. It required great skill since it had to open completely when it landed on the water trapping the fish underneath it. Peter and Andrew were occupied with this type of fishing when Jesus— summons came to them. The weights come together as the nets sink and encircle the fish. Sometimes, the fishermen on a boat had to jump into the water to retrieve the net and so they often fished naked. They were probably fishing with cast nets when they spied Jesus standing on the shore (Jn 21:7)."

The captain jumped up on the front of the boat...

...folded the long net accordion-style over his arm...

...wound himself by twisting his upper torso and then twirled and launched the net out over the water! 

The net opened up into a perfect circle and landed in the water with a terrific splash!

The weights spaced around the edges work together to close it up so the "catch" can be hauled in.....but our demo didn't "net" anything.  heeheehee

The captain cast out a second time and again...nothing.  We all tried to talk him into "casting his net on the other side", but he just laughed and put the net away! 

I guess it would have been awfully disappointing if he would have come up with nothing again, so it's probably best not to test our faith!  LOL!



Simon had experienced a long, non-productive night on the water. No catch meant what?  No fish for him to sell?  Or did it actually mean no breakfast?   He returned to the shore and still had all the drudgery of cleanup to do.  While he's washing his nets Jesus asks him to take him out in the boat.

Did Simon initially want to say no?  Was he exhausted?  Dirty?  Hungry?

But he said yes to the Lord.

Brooklyn Museum - James Tissot

So out they go.  Out a little into the lake.  Simon probably anchors the boat for Jesus to teach and then settles down to rest after his long night.   I can imagine him, lying back in the shade near the rudder. Is he dozing?  Slipping in and out of sleep as he listens to Jesus speak to the crowd on the shore?  Did the words begin to penetrate his dreamy state?  Did the words begin to penetrate his heart?  Did he sit up, did he begin to pay attention?  Did he feel a fire start within him?  Did he become enthralled with the message?  Does he move towards Jesus, did he forget his weariness?  Did he sit t the feet of Jesus and find himself perched on each and every word?

Jesus asks more of him, to cast his nets out into the water. Did Simon's weariness return with the thought? Or maybe he thought Jesus was hungry?  Simon warns him that they have fished all night and caught nothing.

But again he complies.  Was Jesus so charismatic?  Was he so sincere that Simon could not refuse him?

So again, he does what Jesus asked.  And Simon is rewarded with nets so overloaded with fish that he needed help pulling them in.  Plenty for everyone, maybe a bigger catch than Simon had ever seen before!

And Simon immediately knew he was unworthy!  He didn't care about the fish now, he was thinking of his soul - his sinfulness and his unworthiness to even be near Jesus.

But Jesus just tells him, "You think this is something?  Wait till you see what you will catch if you stick with me!"

And Simon leaves everything sitting where it is and goes with Jesus.

Wow.  The nets, the boat, and all those fish too!  He just - again - does what the Lord asks.

I want to be like that!!!

My time on the Sea of Galilee was my favorite part of my trip to Israel.  And the boat ride out into the middle was priceless to my spirituality as I listen to the Gospels in church or when I read the Bible.

Dear Lord, Thank You so much for allowing me to experience you on the Sea where your precious Son spent so much time.  Please continue to remind me and allow me to re-live the wonder and the touch of the Holy Spirit though my trip.  Amen.

2012 Pilgrimage to Israel - Day 5