Capernaum - Where Jesus Walked

Capernaum.

There are a lot of sites in Israel that are "iffy".  There are disputes as to if this place or that was the exact "spot" that such-and-such happened.  After all, it's been over 2000 years.  But not Capernaum.  Here there is no dispute.  Everyone agrees to the authenticity of the ruins of Capernaum.

"Leaving Nazareth he went and lived in Capernaum" (Matt 4:13).

Jesus lived here.  Jesus LIVED here!

Peter, Andrew, James and John were fishermen living in the village.  Matthew the tax collector also stayed here.

It's just an amazing thought. 

We started out in a marvelous garden.  There were benches under a large grove of trees (I found out later they were olive).  It was so peaceful.  So happily peaceful.

Quiet.  People spoke in hushed voices.  I remember there was a breeze.  It was so nice.

We all sat on the benches and Fr. T read to us from the Bible.  I wish I could remember which verse he read.  Capernaum is mentioned in the Gospels 16 times so I have no idea which one it was. But I remember it was wonderful.  I closed my eyes and was basking in it....until Hillel (our Jewish guide) jumped in and started giving us a detailed history lesson.  I think Fr. T was not happy about it, I know I sure wasn't.



On and on about the archeological significance of the place, the history of the Jewish people and how they lived 2000 years ago.  It was interesting, but it wasn't spiritual.  Hillel droned on and on with facts and to tell the truth, I was annoyed.  When some tour helicopters flew over and drowned him out, I was guiltily glad!

Actually, it turned out that Hillel is an expert on Capernaum and a premier archaeologist in Israel.  We were blessed to have had someone so knowledgeable for our guide.  Unfortunately, none of us realized that at the time.  He was trying to give us the rich history and archeological significance of the Jews in this place, and I was interested in connecting spiritually with Jesus in his hometown.  sigh.

We saw lots of cool things, in the court yard there is a display of industrial stone tools that were used at ancient times for farming, such as several olive oil presses, stone jugs, etc.

As we walked along, we could see the foundations of buildings built from the local (black) basalt rock.

As we walked down the path, we came to The Synagogue.

the Synagogue where Jesus preached in Capernaum, Israel

This was THE spot where Jesus preached.

the Synagogue of Capernaum

Actually, this is the "White Synagogue" which was built of white limestone at the end of the 4th century A.D. over the Temple Jesus knew in his day.

You can see the black, basalt rocks common to Capernaum under the beautiful white stones of the later synagogue. 

Jesus taught here. 

"Then they came to Capernaum, and on the sabbath he entered the synagogue and taught."   Mark 1:21

"Jesus then went down to Capernaum, a town of Galilee. He taught them on the sabbath,

and they were astonished at his teaching because he spoke with authority."    Luke 4:31-32

"These things he said while teaching in the synagogue in Capernaum."    John 6:59

 

 "When Jesus returned to Capernaum after some days, it became known that he was at home."  Mark 2:1

"After this, he and his mother, (his) brothers, and his disciples went down to Capernaum and stayed there only a few days."  John 2:12

Jesus made his home here. He lived his daily life here. They knew him, he was their "Teacher". He preached and he healed. He cast out demons.  He went to synagogue here.  He shopped and worked and lived day to day there! He walked all those streets.

This is where the Gospel of Luke says Jesus healed the centurion's servant and raised from the dead the daughter of this synagogue’s leader.

This is where the Gospel of Mark says Jesus healed a man possessed by an evil spirit.

the excavations in Capernaum, Israel

I couldn't.  I just stared out at the ruins and could not comprehend what I was looking at.  I was in complete awe of where I was!

Still to this day I cannot attend Mass without thinking of the black stones of Capernaum.  They come to my mind each time I say,

"Lord I am not worthy that you should enter under my roof, but only say the words and my soul shall be healed."

Capernaum with the Sea of Galilee in the background

"Jesus stepped into a boat, crossed over and came to his own town. Some men brought to him a paralyzed man, lying on a mat. When Jesus saw their faith, he said to the man, “Take heart, son; your sins are forgiven.”"  Matthew 9:1-2

Christ Heals a Man Paralyzed by the Gout. Mark 2:4. Engraving by Bernhard Rode, 1780.

 "A few days later, when Jesus again entered Capernaum, the people heard that he had come home. They gathered in such large numbers that there was no room left, not even outside the door, and he preached the word to them. Some men came, bringing to him a paralyzed man, carried by four of them. Since they could not get him to Jesus because of the crowd, they made an opening in the roof above Jesus by digging through it and then lowered the mat the man was lying on. When Jesus saw their faith, he said to the paralyzed man, “Son, your sins are forgiven.”"  Mark 2:1-5

 

Wow.  I mean seriously - WOW. 

Across the ruins from the Synagogue is St. Peter's house.

Although it would have been a simple dwelling 2000 years ago since Peter was just a fisherman, now there is a very odd-shaped church built over it.

This is where the story from both the Gospel of Matthew and the Gospel of Mark tell us that Jesus left the synagogue and entered the house of Simon (Peter) where his mother-in-law was sick with a fever.  Jesus grasped her hand and helped her up.  The fever left her and she waited on them.  And this was the place!!!

Under the Church in Capernaum is the House of St. Peter

There is archaeological evidence that shows pilgrims have been coming to this spot for centuries, leaving behind carvings of crosses, names, blessings and inscriptions on the walls.  Excavations have revealed pottery and lamps dating back to the end of the first century!!

The weird-looking church has a glass floor in the middle which looks down into St. Peter's house.

Under the glass floor of the Church and House of St. Peter

St. Peter's house is mentioned in the diaries of ancient pilgrims.  Egeria made her pilgrimage in 381, which she said included the original walls: "In Capernaum the house of the prince of the apostles has been made into a church, with its original walls still standing."  and in 570, the Piacenza pilgrim reported that "the house of St. Peter is now a basilica."

To the right of St. Peter's house are some areas for outside prayers services, mass or private meditation.

 
There is also a tiny bit of shoreline in this area, which a determined pilgrim can get to.

I was mesmerized. 

Time had marched on in Capernaum.  Civilizations had come and gone, buildings had risen and fallen...but that shoreline across the sea could not be much different than when Jesus gazed upon it 2000 years ago. 

 

I felt so at peace.

Too soon, as is always the case on a tour, the group was moving on and I had to leave.  Before I did, I pulled out a bottle I had been carrying for just such an occasion and scooped up some of the precious water.  Water that Jesus had swam in....fished in....walked on.

As we made our way back to the entrance of the archaeological park, we stopped before a statue of St. Peter.

 

I was sad to leave and wished I could have spent many more hours in Capernaum, contemplating all the events that had taken place there.  Maybe some day I will get to finish my meditations and again bask in the peace of Jesus' hometown.